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Sir Richard Francis Burton would certainly be shocked by this season’s Lurex wet-look bodycon trend. However he would probably be equally surprised by the revived prevalence of a trend he was much more familiar with: the Harem trouser. A curious choice for today’s modern and fashionable woman; the style connotes female subservience and harks back to a long lost period of demureness. The silhouette drifted in from the East during the late 1800’s following the trepidant voyages of Burton and others, and was subsequently promoted in Europe by the French designer Paul Poiret in 1908. The French fashion pioneer used it as inspiration for a rich collection of high-waisted gowns, turbans and brightly coloured overcoats in luxurious fabrics that epitomised the oriental vogue of the era. The premier of Leon Baskt’s Ballet Russes, held in London in 1911, also drew European attention to the Eastern silhouette; boasting costumes inspired by Persian dress. Slowly and surely, early nineteenth century European fashions were being charmed by the lull and sweet song of the East; the style broke free from English stuffiness and eluded to a far more seductive and exotic culture than our young demi-mondelles were accustomed to. 

However at first look, now that fashion appears to have broken through all imaginable barriers of propriety and experimentation, it seems odd that designers are looking to a once brazen look from antiquity in order to make their statement. And yet, we must consider the additional connotations of such style and heritage; Turkish harems dating to the 13^th century were in fact a place of appreciation of beauty and education rather than repressed environments that oriented around sexual enslaving. Women lived communally, developing skills as singers, writers and partners to noble men; becoming powerful individuals in their own right. Iranian history was also perpetually altered by women of the Persian Royal Harem, due to their underground activism during the Iranian Constitutional Revolution. Such power and influence only seems appropriate for the trouser of today’s career woman.

We must also consider the structure of the cut itself. With ever increasing reports of eating disorders and image complexes within the fashion industry; it could be that designers are finally looking to embrace the natural curve of the female form. The cut enhances the silhouette, flattering hips and showcasing elegant ankles, and allows a relaxed freedom of movement that exudes nonchalant eastern princess while still remaining smart. Yves Saint Laurent have gone a step further this season with their harem trouser; adorning it with glossy onyx sequins that add a touch of western modernity. The look has been recreated by many high street chains, including Topshop, who have a variety of styles on offer.

The drawbacks of the harem trouser? Naturally, there are some. For those of us who are petite, it is a difficult style to carry off. Emphasis on the hips can render us a little dwarfish; possibly more Snow White than Princess Jasmine. Nonetheless, with the right ankle shoe-boot and clear cut, flowing lines on top, the look can still be achieved without looking too bottom heavy. It has however been pointed out that this season’s trouser does in fact resemble the get-up of MC Hammer during his hay day of the 80’s… not a good look. One must therefore avoid all types of neon accessories, bold graphic and colourful prints, and large gold chains. Unless of course that’s the look you’re after- in which case, grab your boom box for accessory chic.    

Charlie Byrne.

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